Monday, 10 December 2007

brown sugar

106 Curlewis St Bondi NSW 2026
(02) 9130-1566

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Bondi is known for many things. lobster tans, many wrong forms of swimwear...and bad, overpriced food.

The locals, however, know of a few gems hidden in the noise and this is by far one of them.

Brown Sugar's best advertisement for converting the masses that breakfast here, into dinner goers - is the huge blackboard wall, displaying one of the most attractive menus I've seen in a while.

An adequate amount of staple favourites, including their signature dish, Fish Pie with truffle oil, and a regular presence of season specials such as stuffed zucchini flowers with gorgonzola. From duck liver pate` to warm chocolate fondant with pistachio gelato, there is surely something for everyone.

On the menu:

Duck Liver Pate` with caramelised figs and pear salsa
Seared Sea Scallops with parsnip pure, soft herbs and a balsamic reduction.

Angel hair pasta with blue swimmer crab and crunchy capers
Fish Pie with truffle oil

The verdict:

You've read me go on and on about the pate` before and perhaps you think there isn't a pate I don't like. Well this might be true, but this is certainly not it. The pate` was light in texture and rich in flavour, the tangy and slightly sour pear salsa cut the richness and gave the dish a new palate. Love it.

Seared scallops are something I tend to gravitate towards and am consantly disappointed by the lack of sweetness and flavour involved. I have to say, this dish didnt shake my 'top 10 dishes of all time' up, but it wasn't bad either. Come on Sydney - thrill me.

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Angel hair pasta - rich and flavourful - the capers were a nice contrast in texture to the rest of the dish. As it happens in most restaurants - there is never enough crab meat.

Ahh, mystical Fish Pie. How many restaurants have claimed this dish as their 'signature' and how many have been utterly crap?

In my mine, the Boathouse will always have the best fish pie, but Brown Sugar's effort does come in at second place. Rich, buttery pastry that gives way to a fragrant, if not a little too soupy interior, the fish was firm and tasty. A little more truffle oil in future please.

Perhaps one of the highlights for me was actually the mashed potato that was served with the fish pie. I don't want to know how much cream and butter was involved, but I'd happily suffer a heart attack to go back for more. In case you're wondering, the potatos used were Royal Blues..nice to see quality produce in the simplest of ingredients.

Great service, great menu, great quality. I shall return.

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