Friday, 27 November 2009

sydney's best burgers

Heston Blumenthal may have a lot to answer for, when it comes to breaking down seemingly simple food into levels of sub-atomic partical analysis. Take chips, for example. A few years ago during the series In Search of Perfection, Blumenthal broke down the art of the perfect chip to an exact science. The type of potato (Charlotte or Belle de Fontenay are best), the thickness, fat to be used, as well as duration and temperature of cooking.

When it comes to burgers, you'd expect nothing less than a deep understanding of what makes a truly good burger tick.

Here are some interesting stats:

  • Number of ingredients to make a cheeseburger: 5 (meat, cheese, bun, sauce, pickle)
  • Number of ingredients to make a Blumenburger: 32
  • Time required to make average cheeseburger: 7 minutes (3 minutes of prep, 4 minutes cooking time)
  • Time required to make Blumenburger: 30 hours, 4 minutes (30 hours of prep, 4 minutes cooking time)
..and if you want the recipe, click here

This may seem somewhat overcomplicated,  but this search for perfection does provide some insight in terms of what makes a truly great burger:

The bread: Forget wholegrain, heavy or overly flavoured buns. The texture should be soft, light and almost brioche-like. Sesame seeds are a must.

The meat: No lean stuff here, Blumenthal makes his with three cuts of cow (chuck, short rib and brisket) - there needs to be enough fat in the meat to render juicy results, and, of course it must be seasoned to a tee.

The cheese: Aged, harder cheeses doen't tend to melt well. You're looking for cheese that melts evently and oozes its way into all available crevices within the burger.

Beyond that, a potent tomato sauce, pickles and lettuce are also a must.

So, armed with these rules and an empty stomach - where does one hunt for the best burgers in Sydney?

3. The Burger Joint

393 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst, 2010

This little hole in the wall, just off Victoria Street may not be dine-in paradise, but the best thing about The Burger Joint is their hardcore dedication to doing just one thing right, and that's constructing a solid burger. Try the classic beef burger Aussie style, with beetroot or if you're more into creative deviations, there's a range of fancy versions including a grilled chicken tandoori and more.

2. Plan B by Becasse

204 Clarence St, Sydney, 2000

I'll admit at first, I didn't see the point of a wagyu mince burger. Why use a fattier type of cow when anyone could just grind beef with added fat to get the same result? I'll be the first to admit how wrong I was. Yes, the marbled quality of wagyu gives a more succulent result, but also, what better way to utilise less popular cuts of the cow in question - and with luxe results to boot.

Perfectly sized to seize with both hands and inhale, Plan B's burger features a marble score 9 Wagyu patty, onion confitted in duck fat, pickled beetroot and cheddar on a brioche bun. At just $10, it's a no brainer - just do it.

1. Rockpool Bar & Grill

66 Hunter St, Sydney, 2000

The much discussed $22 Rockpool burger may have some baulking at the price, but most who have actually tried it would argue that it's twenty two smackaroos well spent. Situated on the ground floor of Neil Perry's Sydney restaurant empire, the swish art deco surrounds and slick service make the perfect foil for burger heaven.

The burger in question features brioche bun, full-blood wagyu beef patty, Gruyere cheese, house-made Zuni pickle, Schulz house-smoked bacon and relish. These flavours are, of course familiar and comforting...but plugged in and amped up to 10 on the flavour scale.

The crisp hand cut chips and Spanish onion rings make great accompaniments.

Don't use a knife and fork; you'll only insult the burger.

Thursday, 26 November 2009

kings vault

Where: 20 McLachlan Avenue, Darlinghurst

For those who haven't yet visited The Kings Vault, your chances are running out to take in a truly cool pop up bar experience.

Showcasing Italian-nurtured food and wine produce from the King Valley region in Victoria , the space is equal measures of artful cool and dishevelled chic..a shame it's only a temporary fixture on the Sydney bar front.

See what Nick Stock, Jill Dupleix...and yours truly have to say about it:



The King’s Vault will be open from 6.30PM-11.00PM on the following dates, so get it while it's going.

Thurs, Nov 26 and Fri, Nov 27 (err, that's today and tomorrow, alright?)

Tuesday, 17 November 2009

pop up bars

It certainly seems as though the pop-up bar phenomenon has well and truly landed in Sydney, threatening to make the bar scene just a little more interesting (if only temporarily).

7 Meter Bar

Where: Underwood Street, Sydney
When: Tuesday to Friday 4pm - 11pm till the end of Sydney Festival in Jan 2010

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A spin on the whole 'it's the end of the world as we know it', 7m (above sea level) bar is a collaboration between an artist, architect/gamer and landscape architect, which combines 'the landscape of weather, an architecture of catastrophe and the technology of games'.

Basically, it's the bar at the end of the world. You'll experience everything from interactive weather projections that build in ferocity as the number of punters increases to drinking cocktails out of hot chip cups and jam jars with names like CFC and Rusty Chain.

It's an eclectic crowd, with real grown ups from the financial district as well as the cool kids who make grunge chic look cooler than the first time around. Leave your pretenses and Manolos at home.

image reference for 7m bar

Kings Vault

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Where: 20 McLachlan Avenue, Darlinghurst
When: Wed 18 and 25 Thursday 19 and 26, Friday 27 November

Those old enough to remember the bad old days of rave culture might remember receiving an email or text message on the day of a party, so only the dedicated could find it and the police would take longer to work out what was up.

Kings Vault isn't quite 'BYO glow sticks' but with this week's launch location being sent out on the day, via email and text, there was a certain nostalgia among the crowd.

Lauching with prosecco, that favourite Italian sparkling best consumed with copious amounts of oysters someplace sunny, was the tipple of choice on the launch but as the bar progresses, the Kings Vault kids will focus on other lesser-known-to-the-Aussie-market varietals including sangiovese, verduzzo barbera and pinot grigio (though I'm pretty sure PG outshone the old Savvy Blanc last summer).

And, because one must never drink on an empty stomach, make sure you order one of their brilliant cheese (Jill Dupleix digs on the muscatels) or charcuterie boards.

image: where is kings vault?

Stoneleigh


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Where: Forecourt of Customs House
When: Thursday 19 - Sat 21 November 2009
(lunch 12pm - 3pm. dinner/drinks 5pm - 9pm)

Stoneleigh's bid to be Sydney's wine brand of the summer is certainly off to a cool start, with the launch of their new portable wine lounge.

Stoneleigh claims to be taking the ‘pop-up’ bar concept to an entirely new level and I'd tend to agree. The grungy industrial nature of the bar stops at the fact that it's constructed from a 40 foot shipping container. The Kelvin Ho and Jeremy Bull designed structure comes with it's own wine garden and chic seating for starters as well as a 'stone wall' held in by wire mesh to form the bar. Just don't put your feet up on the glass topped cane tables...

On offer will be the wine brand's favourite picks for the summer like the crowd pleasing pinot noir and Sydney staple sauvignon blanc while you take in the post-work crowd and watch the sun go down.

Info reference: 4bars.com.au

Friday, 13 November 2009

sydney's best pizza

(As heard on FBI Radio)
Sydney-siders locals embrace pizza like a National food (arguably our own options are a little thin on the ground)...and some Italians might let us have it, given some of the horrific mutations we’ve come up with. While some might overlook the hotly contested pineapple, one might argue that its just plain wrong to put hoisin sauce and Peking Duck atop this much-loved bread.

Though sometimes cases can be made for the more exotic pizza topping varieties, most of the better pizzerias tend towards a purer, more Neapolitan approach: thin-though-tender bases and sparing-though-classic ingredients with a top produce pedigree that Sydney can be proud of. This is, of course the way they were created.

People stand by their favourite pizza joint like some crazy soccer fans and their teams, so to attempt rank them would mostly likely incite public outrage, so here is (in no particular order) the best pizza Sydney has to offer.

gelbison bondi

Gelbison (10 Lamrock Ave, Bondi). This family-run Bondi institution has been feeding locals and tourists alike for years – two local brothers even named their band after it, such is their fondness for this place. Despite the lack of a woodfire oven, they continue to churn out these discs of heaven at a rate of knots. Arrive early to avoid disappointment..this place gets packed most evenings and weekends.

Pompeii’s (126 Roscoe Street, Bondi). Despite owner George Pompei’s Northern Italian origins, he turns out incredibly authentic pizzas (pizza comes from the south, you know) both popular with the locals and the tourists who jostle for table space at this heart-of-Bondi restaurant. The quattro fromaggio is worth a try as is the thinly-sliced potato pizza. Leave room for the delicious gelato afterward – take it away and walk off the meal down the beach.

La Piadina (106 Glenayr Ave Bondi Beach NSW 2026). It may not be 'pizza' in the classic sense, neither is a calzone. A piadina is a flatbread from the Romana region in Italy. Part fajita, part pizza, it's all good.

Love Supreme (180a Oxford St, Paddington). Named in honor of one of Coltrain’s greatest works, this (relative) Paddington newcomer is owned by the original Arthur’s Pizza crew. Thin, thin bases made of organic flour provide the perfect backdrop for delicious topping combinations, such as the Smilie. Dark wood, perfect pizzas..and jazz. Great combination for a date.

Pizza e Birra (Shop 1, 500 Crown St Surry Hills). Surry Hills is renowned for their blanket ‘no reservation’ policy and unfortunately Pizza e Birra is no different. The pizzas are, however worth the (sometimes lengthy) wait. Try the simple prosciutto, rocket and parmesan or the mushroom pizza and wash it down with the restaurant’s own home brew.

Pizza Mario (St. Margaret's Shop 9, 417 - 421 Bourke St Surry Hills). A Sydney stalwart, famous for its gruff staff and fabulous pizzas, you will have to wait so don’t bitch and moan, ok? Order the local favourite – Margherita with Proscuitto.

Crust (13a Booth St, Annandale). More of the ‘new school Australian’ following, you’ll find a few more toppings here than you will at other restaurants on this list. The crusts are slightly thicker…but despite this, their pizza range caters for gluten free and other dietry requirements – try the gourmet vegetarian with creamy pesto drizzled on top.

Rosso Pomodoro (Shop 90-91, 24 Buchanan St, Balmain). This gem is tucket away in Balmain’s ‘Lego Land’ – the newly built up suburb on the verge of White Bay. Fans of this pizzeria are of the extreme kind…you’ll soon discover why when you try them. Order the Potato with Italian Sausage and Rosemary or the Calzone and feel the conversion by consumption begin.

Napoli in Bocca (73 Dalhousie St, Haberfield). Popular with nonnas and foodies alike, Napoli whips out pizzas with deft speed from the woodfire oven in the front of the restaurant. Great for groups, it’s worth going with a large crew so you can try more. There really isn’t a bad one in the bunch – but a particular favourite is the simple Magherita – tomato base with bocconcini and basil.

La Disfida (109 Ramsay St Haberfield). Think ‘soup Nazi’ when it comes to service – this place has a notorious ‘treat ‘em mean, keep ‘em keen’ approach – but the pizzas are worth the brisk treatment. Try the Fieramosca with Roasted Capsicum, Tuna, Olives, Capers, Anchovies and Parsley; it’s a house favourite.

Whether its thin and traditional or Australian ‘gour-met’, it’s clear that like all food, what’s considered good can be a really subjective sport. One thing is clear though – Sydneysiders love their pizza, no matter what shape or form.

somage presents adriano zumbo and manu feildel













Fooderati is hosting an event on the 22nd of November at Manu Feildel's L'Etoile Restaurant in Sydney's Paddington - an afternoon of champagne, canapes and a bespoke 'teagustation' - tea tasting matched with tea-infused desserts created by Adriano.

This afternoon is your opportunity to get 'hands on' with Adriano and Manu (a foodie's dream, no?). There are only a few more tickets left to this intimate event. Click here to find out how to score them.

Somage Presents Adriano Zumbo and Manu Feildel

Event details:

Sunday 22nd of November, 2-5pm @ L’Etoile. Tickets $95
211 Glenmore Road, Paddington, NSW 2021
(Includes Champagne and Canapés, and teagustation with matched deserts)

To confirm your seat, full payment or credit card details must be provided.

To book: Email Melissa Leong media@adrianozumbo.com, Subject: ‘Somage’

charter for compassion

A week or so ago, I was approached by Nathalie Swainston, a friend and gun digital strategist for Ogilvy PR to take part in the Charter for Compassion. Not a wooly concept, just simply to answer this:

'What does compassion mean to you?'.

Part of a global campaign asking people around the world the same question involving people famous for being outspoken about peace, like Desmond Tutu and the Dalai Lama - the campaign asks you to do a simple thing: Go here and affirm the Charter for Compassion to let others know how you feel the world should be.

Australians on Compassion from TED Prize on Vimeo.

You may recognise other foodie faces including Neil Perry and Adriano Zumbo who were generous enough to give their time to champion a cause we often forget about.

Thursday, 5 November 2009

africa in sydney

(as heard on FBI radio)

In Sydney, we pride ourselves on the multicultural melting pot quality of food - from Thai to Italian, Lebanese and even Tibetan. But what about that gigantic continent on the other side of the Indian ocean..just a bit to the..left..ah yes, Africa.

Such a large continent contains so much variation in itself, from Biltong and Braais in South Africa to Persian and Mediterranean influences in the east and north of the continent. So to say 'what is African cuisine?' is a little broad, but here are three places you can taste parts of Africa right here in Sydney.

Out Of Africa

45 East Esplanade
Manly NSW 2095
Phone (02) 9977 0055
Fax (02) 9977 2606

If you're in the mood to eat on the wild side, Out of Africa fits the bill perfectly. Scary faux zebra upholstered booth seats aside, this venue is home to chef and restaurateur Hassan M'Souli's version of soul food - namely spicily eclectic Moroccan and North African influenced food. Like many chefs, his food references his mother’s cooking influence as well as that of his hometown of Casablanca.

You'll find everything you expect to see on a Moroccan menu: Cous Cous, Tagines galore and lots of meat and seafood. A mixed entrée of spicy marinated lamb brochette, saffron-sweet cigar-shaped chicken filo briouat, fried 'soul' sardines, tender grilled calamari and a barbequed king prawn is a tasty beginning to your food safari.

A great feature of Moroccan food is a blend of sweet flavours, mixed in with the spicier ones giving a contrast to the heat of some of the other offerings. The Sud Afric Lamb Sosaties is a great example, combining perfectly tender chargrilled lamb backstrap, with rice and a sweet apricot Madras sauce. The sauce is served with sour cream and is simultaneously creamy, fruity, sweet and savoury.

Respite from the festival of meat comes in the form of the Fish Turban Tagine – blue-eyed cod served in Chef M'Souli's famous spicy tomato charmoula sauce. Not sure where the Turban comes into it, but the fish is fresh, tender and the dish has a great seafood flavour. It’s all served bubbling hot in a Tagine and our friendly waiter seems to enjoy whipping off the Tagine lid with the flourish of a Spanish Matador.

No elephant sitings here, but at around $35 per person, its the most affordable trip to North Africa you're likely to find.

African Feeling

501 King St,
Newtown
02 9516 3130
info@africanfeeling.com.au

Chef Hudu Alhassan may originally hail from Ghana, but his little slice of Africa in Newtown is just about one of the best places to go on safari in Sydney. Taking cues from all over his home continent, you can expect to experience distinct flavours from plantain chips from Nigeria, Bua; tender goat curry from Ghana and Yai Machuzi - boiled eggs rolled in chicken mince, coated in bread crumbs and spices - kind of like an African scotch egg.

Regardless of where in Africa you decide to journey to on this menu, you'll get a hit of aromatic spices and herbs, which go perfectly with African Feeling's spicy house made ginger beer - a concoction brewed from ginger, lemon juice and cloves.

All African food is served with a carb of sorts (Atkins was probably never a fan), from rice to chapati (East African flatbread), cous cous and fufu (ground grain, rolled into balls and eaten by hand), whatever you choose, it's the perfect way to soak up those flavours to the very last.

Bianca's Grub Store

532 Old South Head Road,
Rose Bay
T: 93716022
biancasdeli.com.au

This last location may not exactly be a restaurant, a cafe or even a diner, but if you want to know what South Africans miss most about home, chances are you'll find it here at this deli slash gourmet market.

Meat fiends beware, if you haven't tried biltong before then prepare for a mouthwatering revelation. This marinated, air-dried steak is pure 'watch the game with a beer and your best mates' snack food and completely addictive (fooderati tip: ask for it 'wet, with a little bit of fat').

If condiments are more you thing, Mrs Ball's Chutney, available in original and spicy will fast become household staples. Aromatic, sweet and a little tart, it's slightly disturbing how many uses you'll find for it in your culinary routine.

If you're planning on having a braai (that's BBQ to you), make sure you pick up a boerewors. A spiced, spiral shaped sausage not unlike a Tolouse, it makes ordinary sausages look, well a bit ordinary.

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boerewors image from Wikipedia

A deli in Rose Bay is also nothing without Jewish staples like gefilte fish, chopped liver and kneidlach (matzo balls). If you don't have a Jewish grandmother or you're curious as to what it all means to be part of the tribe, Bianca's is a great place to start.







the macaron list

Adriano Zumbo Patisserie
296 Darling Street Balmain
Open from 8.00am

In the lead up to Adriano Zumbo's Macaron Day - a celebration of the big AZ's birthday, the kitchen is going at it hammer and tongs to create the ambitious 60 flavours of macaron for tomorrow's event.

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Adriano's Zumboloopas hard at work

While Zumbo is yet to make it to 60, here are the 45 you'll be able to battle for tomorrow:

1. Black truffle
2. Cheeseburger
3. Liquorice
4. Rice pudding
5. Finger bun
6. Popcorn
7. Mastic, yoghurt, cucumber and mint
8. Iced Vovo
9. Vegemite sourdough
10. Peanut butter
11. Pink grapefruit
12. Strawberry bubblegum
13. Mango and tonka bean
14. Cheesecake
15. Goats cheese and blueberry
16. Burnt butter
17. Burnt toast and butter
18. Maple syrup, bacon and pancake
19. Fig and blackcurrant
20. Strawberries and cream
21. Caramello Koala
22. Blue cheese and pear
23. Doughnut
24. Golden Gaytime
25. Avocado
26. Pan d’epice
27. Turkish delight
28. Neopolitan
29. Olive oil and rosemary
30. Carrot cake
31. Toasted marshmallow
32. Chocolate and red wine
33. Chocolate and mint
34. Chocolate and praline
35. Chocolate and passionfruit
36. Mexican chocolate
37. Tanzanian salted chocolate
38. Plantation chocolate
39. Chocolate citrus
40. Chocolate foie gras
41. Raspberry chocolate
42. Chocolate and salted caramel
43. Green tea
44. Date and orange
45. Lamington

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Adriano will be dropping down to the patisserie from 11.00am, so be sure to drop round and wish the big guy 'happy birthday'. My tip? Get there early to avoid disappointment!

Sunday, 1 November 2009

AIDS trust of australia food and wine fair

24 degrees, sun, wine, great food. I could be describing almost any day in Spring or early summer in Sydney, but fortunately for the AIDS Trust food and wine fair, yesterday's conditions proved optimum for play.

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With restaurants like Quay, Longrain, Four in Hand, and more, Sydney siders were out in force to sample some amazing food and wine for a great cause.

Not to mention, the very colourful Ben & Jerry's van in it's technicolour glory, handing out samples of its cult-favourites.

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Groovy, man

The Marine Stewardship Council's sustainable seafood stand (aka my home for the day) churned out chilli and lime Alaskan salmon fish cakes, Kooyong yellow eyed mullet (better than King George whiting) and Asian cucumber salad - showcasing the talent of Tom Kime, bestselling food writer, chef, tv personality and all round awesome guy.

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Yellow eyed Kooyong mullet with Alaskan salmon fish cakes and Asian cucumber salad

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Mr Tom Kime

Most importantly, it the point of the MSC's presence at the fair is to promote the importance of sustainable seafood. If we're planning to eat it in the decades and generations to come, then something better be happening now.

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My task for the day, cooking up the fish! Alaskan salmon fish cakes on the BBQ


As a global body, the MSC certification symbol means that a supplier has jumped through several independently run, complex hoops and more, to prove that their produce is not only of the highest quality, but is produced in a way that is sustainable in the long term. All round, a feel good day to end a month of amazing food, wine and laughs.

Congratulations to Joanna Saville and the rest of the organising groups for Crave and SIFF - time to put your feet up, perhaps consider a detox...and enjoy the sunshine!