Monday, 30 June 2008


Level Ground, Shop 7
50 Macleay St
Potts Point NSW 2011
Phone (02) 9331 2226

Published in 3DWorld Magazine


When it comes to hearty winter comfort food to frighten the chills back to where they're welcome, Sydney has a surprisingly large and authentic selection considering we're blessed with mostly mild weather.

I'm talking more specifically about the kind of food you imagine Vikings (ok, I know they were Scandinavian) would eat: Mammoth proportions of Chicken Schnitzel, Pork Knuckles, Sauerkraut, and of course, beer. Of course, the Eastern Europeans do it best and in Sydney, Queen of the Weiner Schnitzels would have to be Maggie's in Potts Point.

The evening turns out to be decidedly moody suitably arctic so our troop of hungry little vikings decide a table indoors is probably a better idea, although the courtyard at the entrance of the restaurant is perfect for summer beer drinking behaviour.

Our Viking leader (aka. The birthday boy) demands that I order the pork knuckle, not in the least because it would be comical to see a small Asian girl eating this dish of legendary proportions. Rather disappointingly (even more so when it turns out the origin of the pork happens to be Bangalow), it turns out that they have sold out one hour prior, leaving me to order the Duck Terrine with Cranberry sauce and the Swiss Bratwurst served with Potato Rosti and Sauerkraut.

Other popular dishes are the Jaeger Schnitzel with creamy champignon mushroom sauce and the famous rosti/sauerkraut killer combination.

The Duck Terrine turns out to be surprisingly meaty, dispensing with any gelatinous misconceptions you might have about terrines. The rich flavour of the duck is offset with the sweetly tart cranberry sauce and served with butter-coated warm bread rolls.

The Bratwurst arrives next, to the polite shock of my neighbours, the Bratwurst is rather..well endowed. Sexual connotations aside - the serving sizes are more than generous and will happily feed the ravenous masses. The Rosti and Sauerkraut work well together with contrasting textures of crisp potato and tender Sauerkraut. The sausage was perhaps not as flavourful as expected, however in context of the dish, it teamed well with the richly flavoured jus and tart cabbage flavour.

The Veal Jaeger Schnitzel is almost larger than the plate and is covered in a rich-looking creamy mushroom sauce. The meat is tender and sufficiently thin as a good schnitzel should be, the only difficult part is which part of the dish to save for last.

European beer, good food and friends - enough to keep any hoard happy.